In this July issue:

What Americans can learn from Ticos.
The happiness factor.

What's in your ceviche today?
Shark stuffed with cocaine.

From Hawaii, with Love.
A gringo tourist reflects.

Insider travel tips.
Driving (or renting) a car from Golfito to Pavones

Creating a United Front:
Letters to our Spanish language edition, BuenosDiasPavones.com

What Americans Can Learn from Ticos

Costa Rica ranked #1 in the 2008 Happy Planet Index, with a rating of 76.1. Why are Ticos happier than everyone else in the world?

• Costa Ricans live long healthy lives, as long and healthy as people in the USA or Central Europe.

• There is no army, which frees up government money for social programs.

• Ticos also have solid social networks of friends, families and neighborhoods, and a sensible work-life balance.

• Costa Rica provides for equal treatment of women, and there is strong political participation by the population.

• Costa Rica achieves all of this with one-quarter the ecological footprint of the United States.


To quote liberally from the Happy Planet report:

“Survey data reveals two key features of Latin American culture.

"One is the presence of relatively un-materialistic aspirations and values; [the people are] much less concerned with material issues than… with friends and family.

"Secondly, social capital is particularly strong in the region. Civil society is very active, from religious groups to workers’ groups to environmental groups.

“Some have mocked the high levels of reported life satisfaction in Latin American countries as belying a lack of knowledge of anything better. On the contrary, Latin America is perhaps more exposed to North American culture than anywhere else in the developing world. Yet somehow it has been more resistant to idolizing this lifestyle, or at least more able to be happy with its own way of life despite this influence [emphasis added]. Pura Vida…represents in itself an attitude about what is important.”

Pura Vida indeed.

This information is sourced and edited for readability. We have taken every effort not to distort the study’s findings. A download of the original study is available http://www.happyplanetindex.org.

What's in that ceviche?

As part of our ongoing analysis of the ecological effects of a seafood based diet, we present the following: Last month, Mexican police found 2,000 pounds of cocaine stuffed inside frozen sharks that were packed in the fish warehouses of Golfito.

That led Costa Rican police to discover a high capacity distribution center in the pretty seaside town of Golfito:

"A property with eight luxury homes and swimming pool in Purruja de Golfito was more than just a residential compound, but also a place for storing and distributing illegal drugs, as police found a series of tunnels and an underground storage area where up to five tons of cocaine could be stored. O.I.J. agents raided the property that belonged to Costa Rican Sigifredo Ceciliano… Ceciliano admitted on Friday to selling the shark to a Mexican national who has gone missing."

Read more: http://insidecostarica.com/dailynews/2009/june/21/cr02.htm

What do you think happened to the Mexican?

Please share your comments or corrections.

From Hawaii, with Love

Well, another fine visit to Pavones, my favorite little town outside of the United States. Even though Costa Rica might be considered the 51st state by some. I mean, is the United States the only Navy they have?

There are enough ex-pats living in Pavones to almost qualify for FEMA loans the next time it rains too hard.

By the way, are there really more annoying people in the world than US ex-pats?

Anyhow... I thoroughly enjoyed my all too brief month, surrounded by the beautiful scenery, surf, and all my Tican and other world friends as well as the fellow travelers I met. I wish I could spend an entire surf season with y'all but sadly, I am not rich, I only serve the rich and thus must return to Maui to milk them for more travel money in order to begin dreaming about next year's visit

To watch the people come together to fight the tuna farm via the great festival was heartwarming. I wish you all the best of luck and answered prayers in your community.

As the once-jungle outpost slowly becomes a working entity Bravo to Rio Claro for winning the futbol championship! Photos are on the way and William of Willy Willi market will have them

For you, whom I long ago dubbed "The intrepid travelers", who scraped out a living in the jungle to enjoy one of the truly great waves of the world, I can only hope I didn't burn anyone and always showed respect for the people in general and community of established wave riders in particular.

Having grown up in the pre-leash, pre-lawyer days when a good beating got the point across quite expediently, I was somewhat sad to witness the haughty wave hogging by a few foreign visitors that went on during some of the swells. Chin up folks, it happens everywhere.

The once precocious kids are now the young turks, running businesses and no longer mere children, while the once semi-outcast pioneers are now the old guard establishment as is the usual case in any developing civilization, no matter how small. This was to me, a student of history and archeology, really cool. Almost like watching a science experiment in a petri dish. I can only hope that it will all work out for the betterment of all, Tican and haole alike.

As the burgeoning industrial complex seemed to be based on visitor index, cabina rental and satellite eateries, allow me to offer my two cents worth of advice.

The world is in an economic toilet and despite the semi-optimistic mumbo jumbo of economic forecasters there will be considerably more belt tightening for some time to come. This will be a boon to the surfers who I'm sure are tired of the plethora of teeny bopper laden SUVs that pile into town prior to any swell of consequence.

However to all the folks I noticed working hard to expand their rental business, profit from real estate inflation or make a living off the once furious influx of visitors due to the expansion of internet information, I would only offer that there may be a longer period to wait before your investment pays off.

Sadly, for my friend Skip, who experienced the waves and people of Pavones for the first time this year and proclaimed it the trip of a lifetime, it truly was.

Skip died while surfing in Honolulu, O'ahu on June 26 at the age of 45. Another reason to love like it was the first time, laugh like it was the last, and dance like you were in the dark alone.

I wish you all the very best and look forward to seeing you next spring.

Aloha nui loa, Roberto Shaw

Insider Travel Tips: Driving from Golfito to Pavones

This month, let's assume you're driving instead of taking the bus.

Part 1: Rent a car in Golfito

Part 2: Drive from Golfito to Pavones


Solid Car Rental is the only option in Golfito. Reserve well in advance through their web site. We have rented through Solid twice and both of our experiences have been very good.

Solid has about 6 cars in Golfito: Their best value the Hyundai BeGo (good for 2 people, maybe 3, and bring your soft racks for surfboards). The cheapest car is the Suzuki Jimmy, which is good for 2 people who’ve never needed a chiropractor, as the suspension is unforgiving. Their nicest car (and most expensive, at about $900 a week) is the Mitsubishi Montero, which will take 5 people, and all your boards and bags.

Deductibles start at $1,000. Ouch.

When you arrive at the lovely Golfito airstrip, take a cab to Hotel Samoa. There, your family and friends can enjoy a cold beer at the boat-shaped bar. Skip the food. If you’re hungry, go to Banana Bay Marina restaurant, a 5 minute drive south.

The Solid guys speak English. They will fill out the computer-driven paperwork while you sweat it out in their glass-enclosed office, which has no a/c. At least your friends are enjoying a cold one.

The Solid representative will take you outside to the unshaded car inspection area with a clipboard. On this clipboard is a body chart for the car. He will tick off little nicks and scrapes. It is YOUR JOB to add every single nick and scrape, ding or discoloration, on every bumper, panel, and piece of glass, to their body chart. Do not forget the roof or the windshield.

If you are thorough the body chart should take at least 10 grueling minutes. Tap into your inner anal-retentive.

Solid will charge you for any ding you add to the car, especially to the windshield. Whether the ding is your fault, or caused by gravel thrown by the car in front of you on the long road to Pavones, is not important. No importa!

When you return the car, you should take the time to review the body chart. Otherwise, your run the chance, however small, that you will be charged for damage in abstentia.

Solid car’s run well and, should you have a problem, their service is excellent. When you return the car, don’t unload your luggage, because the Solid representative will drive you to the airport after inspecting the car for damage.


Part 2: Driving from Golfito to Pavones:

General Advice:

• Don’t drive at night, don’t set off from Golfito after 5 pm. There are a few road signs, but you’ll never see them at night. Even locals avoid driving in the dark.

• When in doubt, turn right at intersections, but not at the fork in the road to Zancudo.

• When you leave Golfito, your cell phone will not work until you reach Cuervito.

• Stock up in the Golfito supermarkets, or pay 50% more in Pavones.

• Golfito is your last chance to use an ATM at Banco Nacional or CoopAlianza.

• The drive from Golfito to Pavones takes about 1 ½ hours.



Driving Directions


Drive south out of Golfito (away from the airport). Drive through the areas Las Monas and Purruja (look for signs on businesses, there are no “official” signs). About 10 minutes out of town will be a wide 3-way intersection. Turn right here. (Landmarks: large rancho restaurant on your left, bus stop on your right).

Drive to the ferry, which opens at 6 and closes at 8, depending on the tides. Pay c1,500 for great ceviche and c1,000 toll for your car on the ferry. After ferry, it’s a horrible washboard road. Watch for narrow bridges.

About a half-hour into your trip, the road will take you to a soccer field, and the only way to turn is left. So of course you turn left. (Landmarks: small café and blue and white police station on your left). Take the quick right (landmark: basketball court on your left, and an actual sign to Pavones with an arrow).

There are more narrow bridges. You will pass through – not towns exactly, more like settlements. Drive on. Watch the bridges. Love the washboard roads.

About 45 minutes into your trip, you’ll be at a wide 3-way intersection. Woah, an intersection! You might blow just by it, because the only landmarks are a café (often closed) and a sign for La Ponderosa. Turn right here. Don’t miss this one.

The road gets a little better, and then it gets a lot worse. You’ll eventually be on a paved portion. You’ll wish they had never paved the road, because it’s not maintained, so the potholes are harder and trickier. Watch out for the dangerously narrow bridge, where 3 Brazilian surfers once plunged to their death (rural legend).

Now you’re an hour into your trip. You’ll arrive at another significant landmark, the Collegio (high school) de Comte (on your right side). Immediately after the high school is an intersection. Turn right (landmarks: supermarket on your right, rancho restaurant on your left).

This 50 meters of paved road is the smoothest of your trip. You might be tempted to reverse over it a few times, just to give your bones a break.

Now you’re back on the washboard road. Landmarks: on your left, bulldozer depot, then bus depot, then ranchitos restaurant. Past these, you’re at The Fork In The Road. Stay straight/left. The sign indicates left for Pavones, right for Zancudo.

You’re about a half hour from Pavones now. Steady. We’ll provide more detail here, slow things down a bit (but the road, amazingly, gets better).

Continue following the road south, you will pass the yellow school in Cuervito, go down a hill and see a pretty view and pass Encanto on your right (landmark: large billboard with blue butterfly). Continue on road, at bottom of hill is Pilon (right for beach and beach road to Zancudo).

Go over bridge (hairy on the upside) and now you’re in Cocal (top off the gas tank here, it’s cheaper than Pavones). Continue south over several cement and wooden bridges.

If you’re visiting friends who live on The Road To La Yerba, take note of the one beautiful cement bridge with the round railings, because 50 meters after that is a left. That is the left that takes you up into La Yerba. Or continue.

When you get to the Pavones intersection by the white fishermen’s building (you’ll know, there will be lots of signs for tourism establishments), you either head straight into the soccer field area (also to the Cantina, Café Suerte, La Perla, several restaurants and cabinas) or turn left for the supermarket and hardware store.

The intersection of the supermarket and hardware store is considered significant juncture. Traveling straight up the hill takes you to Alta Mira. Turning right takes you to the road to Mira Olas cabinas (on your left). You’ll pass a well-constructed bus-stop on your right. Then you’ll cross The Bridge over the Rio Claro. (What gringos call Pavones is actually the town of Rio Claro … de Pavones, to distinguish it from Rio Claro de Golfito. The bay is Pavones.)

To get to Punta Banco, after the Rio Claro Bridge, immediately turn right. You will pass La Ponderosa, and then a bridge over the Rio Nicaragua: this crossing puts you in Punta Banco. Continue driving south for Tiskita, the pueblo of Punta Banco (more cabinas here), and Rancho Burica. See that big hill on the left? Climb that to get to the Yoga Farm (approx. ½ hour drive south from the Rio Claro Bridge – in other words, from Golfito to Punta Banco is a 2 hour drive).

Happy and safe travels.

Please share your comments, questions or corrections below or e-mail us at blogger@goodmorningpavones.com. If you'd like an e-mail with these directions, write to us.

Enough Already: Talk is Cheap

[Note: Apologies for translation errors, El Maestro]

Hello, my name is Berni Rojas, I own Ticosur.com
SA, project developer and creator of "harrasment on the Internet."

I do not support tuna farms in our area. However well known this is to MINAET.

We should require the director of ACOSA Mrs. Morales, that he and his "Etilma" stop work and spend the money [they have on our behalf.]. We must harassment them to be responsible for what is happening and will happen. Rather than be quiet, they should defend the environment of the area, and should promote environmental tourism, not destruction.

Enough of politicians who just talk and talk. Enough of the government funcionaries from San Jose who come to spend the money we give them through taxes, which belongs to the people of the area.

We scream ENOUGH ALREADY.

MONTON's answer is to borrow money for their luxury cars and turn around and say "I support the Environment."

Enough already of these tricks, of the theft, of the people in these false Foundations, in MINAE, in the municipalities. They must fulfill their duty. We pay for it through our taxes.

Stop the vagrancy and theft of the operating money that is meant for them to do their jobs.

No one reports how they spend the money on these projects. Why don't they publish the gifts, and their budgets. Who will benefit from these marine farms? There are communities without work, the highway is no good, there are communities without good health care and good education. Everything is abandoned.

Where are members of the PLN (Olivier) and CAP (Olivia) that supposed to be helping are area? We pay taxes for their work, to pay their salaries and expenses for their representation of our interests.

Wake up please. Stop believing in fantasy. Everything is about profit. We see the destruction of government.

Enough already.

Berni C. Rojas

United Front to Protect Coastal Communities

The presence defenders of Punta Banco, and the day we delivered the Bill of coastal community to the Legislative Assembly was very important for all communities in the National Front of Coastal Communities. These communities are under threat of extinction by government policy.

It is of utmost importance to safeguard the interests of all our communities. Please join our efforts in a National Front of defense against common threats.

I am sending information to FEDEAGUA (the group that is spearheading the movement of coastal communities, and the Draft Law on the coastal community) in order to establish direct contact. We must establish a Common Front.

Please share all information and documentation you have about the case of the tuna farms, to make it move in the network of the coastal community, and visit our web page, soon to be published on the internet at www.redesdelapeninsula.com

Victoria Quirós Ramírez, victoria@redesdelapeninsula.com
A la victoria*


Translated from Spanish by El Maestro. Please send your comments and corrections to mastro@buenosdiaspavones.com